mt mn i have switched from the 1.1/4 to 1.3/8 tubing for the upper rear frame rails. will this help in the strength and itegrity of the back half? or im i pi--- in the wind thanks gary b ( broke dad ] not sure of the exact structural cross section comparison of the 2 without getting out me book but...

we'll build ya one.........

Yeah what Gator said,,,,,,,,, so your old school thats the way it should be...

OOOOHHH yeah fergot,,, what rapid said you need a good support system for transportation or you will pre wear you chassis out,,, always, always use a bladder or some type of support for the chassis.... and lock the front wheels into a stop type block to avoid unnecessary movement...

at 230" and a double slip joint, you shouldn't have to much flex unless you have bind..... as far as the mtr mt area,, that is a place where most all end up cracking regardless....we have been double tubing that area for a small length and have had a little success in them making it through the...

Man this hit home hard,,, the MAN as far as shifters goes for me,,,,
saw him many times RIP Ronnie

Hey I got a Brunner made in NY in 1955, monster of a compressor, and still kicks arse,,,,,

WOW for that price I hope he knows what he's doing....

RR are ya leaving in the leafs? makes a difference.... also guys you need to wiegh your car front to rear four corners etc,,, find the IC (instant center) then you can calculate the angle and the hole location for your four link,,and it is very usful with the ladder bars.. Back to Robbie,, the cost ...

sticky ones