Attention Bodymen

Here's where our individual members can fill us in on their racing, car building, or other exploits.
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pro70z28
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Attention Bodymen

Postby pro70z28 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:52 pm

I picked up some Fusor adhesive today for a sign. I am CNC cutting aluminum letters to go on an aluminum substrate and I don't want to use fasteners.

The question is...
Do you think I could glue the firewall in the "Z" together with this stuff or am I better off TIGing it together? Body shop supply says it's stronger than spot welds. :?: :idea: :arrow:

I may have asked this question a few eons ago...but I don't remember..and I sure don't remember the answer if I did. :oops:
15th Annual DRAGLIST Nationals Sometime in 2020. Somewhere in the USA.

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Solid Rock
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Postby Solid Rock » Wed Sep 02, 2009 10:27 pm

Gary, Where did you get that stuff and is it very expensive?

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pro70z28
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Postby pro70z28 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:16 pm

I got it from Arnies Auto Body Supply.
The Dispenser was about 30 bux, and a tube of adhesive was about 50 bux. 7.2 Oz. 2 part tubes. The dispenser ( fancy caulk gun) mixes the 2 part stuff as it's applied. 1 year shelf life. I've got this tube figured into the sign and I won't use all of it I don't think. With the firewall project just around the corner I thought I'd use it on that, if it will take the stress of a race car. (I mean street caah). :wink:
15th Annual DRAGLIST Nationals Sometime in 2020. Somewhere in the USA.

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Pappy1
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Postby Pappy1 » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:06 am

I used 3M Auto mix when I put the extended wheel openings on the Monza. It was so easy to use even a caveman could use it. :lol: I put the openings on several years ago and there's still no indication of any seams showing through. Here's a link for more information.

http://www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/au0222b.html

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Solid Rock
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Postby Solid Rock » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:40 am

Does anyone know how this stuff works on fiberglass?

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Pappy1
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Postby Pappy1 » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:59 am

works great!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Rapid Randy Baker
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Postby Rapid Randy Baker » Thu Sep 03, 2009 11:13 am

Landlord, it would work great for what you are asking about. It needs to be left in the "Clamped in Place" mode overnight and you will be gooda to go. 8) Maybe a shorter time in direct sunlight. :D

Rocky, I don't know if it would work on fiberglass. I know in the OLD DAYS, fiberglass and metal heated and contracted differently and that is mostly why all the fiberglassed on hoodscoops cracked off after a year or so. If you are thinking glueing in tinwork to the fiberglass, it just might work for that. I know I have mentioned it before, Evercoat makes a "Fiberglass Resin Jelly." It is resin that is thick like body filler so it stays right where you apply it. It is the best thing to ever come along for fiberglass work. You can apply it over top the mat so it just lays smooth like glass so you don't have to finish it off if it is on the underside of the body. It could be used as a glue without mat for something like that I bet.

One more note, most of the panel glues are not to be used out in the painted area. In other words, if you splice in a qt, like at the sail panel by the roof. You will have to weld that area, and finish with body filler as the glue will show a line in the sun even if you have body filler over it it will cause a ghost line there.
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Solid Rock
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Postby Solid Rock » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:19 pm

Thanks, Randy.
I need to put some stoppers under the body to keep the new taillight flappers from going in under the body. The old ones sat outside the body but I didn't like the way they looked.
I also need to glue something just above the roll cage on the fiberglass to keep the aluminum rear window from rubbing on the cage. It's worn quite a bit in only three runs.

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stimpy
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Postby stimpy » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:43 pm

the Fuzor stuff is what Paccar ( the owners of Peterbilt and Kenworth) use to assemble the cabs for the 387 and the T-2000 semi tractors as the exterior panels are composite and the inner frames are steel and aluminum and its all bonded together . we use it to repair trailer roofs( Kemlite composite panels ) and we used it to fix the nose of Bills trailer when it decided to trim some branches a speed busted the nosecap and peeled a panel . Fuzor is expensive , but worth its price and buy a box of mixer tips as you will need them , fuzor also has a help line ( its on the package ) call them and see what they recommend , But since I seen it hold a 10 ton truck cab together in a crash I say the stuff should work as those cabs twist and flex too , ( when we did the repairs on the trailer we had to scuff the plating or powdercoating off and scratch the metal underneath with 36 grit to make it bond tightly The surface has to be clean ..... . and it paints nicely too . you can actually buy it cheaper from a store in Illinois online , but I am glad your using Arnies ..
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