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Leaf Springs

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:00 pm
by dnewnova
I have a 3 piece leaf set up on the rear and have read that having extra clamps on the springs and traction bars can help do more to control spring wrap up Also read that some people have welded plates along the side of the leafs but would that not damage the temper of the spring :?
Royz

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:37 pm
by Eric David Bru
Royz,

I am a 4-Link guy, but it seems to me that you are correct.

If you weld a spring it WILL change its temper.

Extra clamps are used to combat axle wrap if I recall... (?)

Tell us more aboot your Hot Rod and what you are trying to accomplish.

I am sure we can help/point you in the right direction.

EDB

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:46 pm
by dnewnova
http://users.glowfoto.com/dnewnova

ITS a 72Nova
6-71 blown 383 ,th400, 8" 3800 convertor, ford 9",3.73gear ,spool, 28" tire
2780# with me
at present its totaly going to have to be a strip car my goal is low/mid 10s running 8# boost.
if I can get there ????I would like to make it streetable again but just enough to be legal so it would still only be a single seater
It has koni coilover conversion up front with rack and pinion steering strange double adjustables at the rear frame connectors 8 pt roll cage.
every one says and a lot of guys use the caltracs but I wanted to keep the rear fairly old school but will concede if thats not possible.
Thanks for your reply
Royz

Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 1:52 am
by Mrs. Stimpy
novaguy , ( this is stimpy speaking) from my former street racing days you do not want to to weld anything to the springs as they will start to crack where the welds are from destroying the case hardening , what I did to get the best traction from my firebird ( which uses the same rear springs ,is to make a back up spring to stiffen the main leaf in the front half then clamp all the forward points where the springs come to touch each other and then take all the clamps off behind the axle so they can fan also make sure the shackles are moveable and not sticking ( i got the trick from some old mopar dart racers its also shown in the mopar performance guide) everyone used to laugh at me as I couldn't lay a patch with the car but you could feel the backend rise when you floored it and it took off rather strong and no squealing tires and I also used gas shocks that where a little longer too. but since I noticed the DA shocks in the back I would say make them so they pull fast and compress slow ( about 20 /80 ) and then loosen up the compression from there

Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 10:12 am
by dnewnova
Hi Stimpy
Thanks for the reply your answer is cool because I kinda had that idea and a number of other people have said the same on other sites
Thanks
Royz

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 1:48 am
by stimpy
no problem . as a matter of safety you shouldn't weld anywhere near springs even the spark spatter can cause a annealment of the case hardening and be a starting point for a crack so cover those buggers up when welding near them and never use them for a ground clamp spot either , the trick I was telling you about isn't in the new mopar suspoension book but is in the older books ( they where revised in the 1990's ) .

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:29 pm
by dnewnova
I was looking at how I can attach an extra spring at the forward end of my leafs
I cant see a way as to how I can attach it so that its secure would just clamping it to the leaf that goes to the hanger work ?
do you have any pix of your set up
Thanks for the help
Royz

Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:40 am
by stimpy
No pictures as the car was crushed over 15 years ago ( long story invovling jealous now ex wife :roll: ) what i did was I went to a spring shop had them make me the set to my specs the back up leaf was mounted with the thru bolt in other words they cut the spring off about 2 inchs behind the thru bolt just after the axle mounting u bolts and the others where added below this , I had to explain to them this was for racing and sign a waiver as they wouldn't build it for me initially you probably will have to get the leaf made then disassemble your set and add it then reassemble it , the spring set i used was a stock set they made and had them make up the leaf from the thickness of material they were using so i don't know what the rate was . basically you are making the front portion of the leaf spring into a solid member ( like a ladder bar) and the back supports it while it sits . its basically the theory an air ride truck uses they use the axle windup to help support the the load and truck

Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 12:16 pm
by dnewnova
Thanks Stimpy
I tried 2 steel stockists yesterday and both said no :cry: when I said it was for Automotive use
Now heres the kicker :D I found a guy In Seattle who actually makes leaf springs :D and he knew exactly what you were describing as he had done the same thing when he raced :D but he will not supply the metal :cry: and will only do the job if I remove the springs :cry: :cry: and take them to him
so just wondering the plan of action to take :?:
Incidently I am assuming that I have to use spring steel otherwise under torque it will just take a "set" :?
Royz

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 6:05 am
by stimpy
I would take it to the guy if he knows what the plan is the extra leafs are spring steel ( its basically a leaf with the tail sheared off ) and if he is a spring maker he has the machines to clamp the bugger together and save you some greif as you just cannot just tighten down the center bolt and expect it to hold they clamp them in a press then bolt and flat clamp them together . if the set has taken set see about having them re-arched and then do the leaf bit .