So what does this car look like?
CHASSIS - Rolling Spec chassis - w/Tires
After talking with several builders you could have a
spec chassis so there is no incentive to spend extra dollars on some
exotic chassis. My preference would be an FED but reality would say you
would also need to allow RED. At this power level I don't think it would
make any difference anyway. The max wheelbase would be 160 inches. I have
run a stretched funny car chassis @ 155" and at 200mph it was dead
stable. It would come with a standard 9" ford rear which is the
cheapest and strong enough to hold up. Also this size would fit in any
trailer, even a 20 foot box trailer or a open trailer. For a rear tire why
not use the a standard 12 inch slick as a spec? Easily affordable on
readily available and plenty of tire for the power. One small point, there
would be NO canards or wings. The only exception to this would be a small
front over the axle wing if desired. Something like 6" x 12" or
REAR END w/GEAR
As I said above a standard 9" rear with spool and
after market axles that will hold about 800 hp are cheap and reliable. A
set of disc brakes and the rear is ready to go. As for a gear ratio I
would allow either a 3.60 or a 3.90. This is very easy to check by turning
the tire one revolution and counting the number of time the yoke turns
over. As long as it is between 3 1/2 turns and 4 turns it is legal.
As much as a lot of us know clutches, the practical
solution to this would be a 2 speed glide. One of these built to hold
about 800 hp is not all that expensive and would last a whole season. NO
trans brake and it would be shifted manually.
Up till this point it has all been basic and generic for
everybody but now the fun begins.
ANY motor with a max of 310 cu in. Must us Factory block
and heads, NO aftermarket components. Why 310? Easy, even a 302 motor .030
over is 306 cubic inches. Why use a small motor? This is to allow
everybody to join in the fun. Remember I said ANY motor. This would allow
any 4 cyl, 6 cyl or 8 cyl motor that would fit within the rules. You can
use old style motors or later style motors. It doesn't matter as the key
is using FACTORY block and cyl heads. An aftermarket crankshaft would be
acceptable for safety reasons and help everybody fit the cu in limit. For
the base motor that is all the rules you need. This motor rule would bring
in old and new alike to try "their" combination. They could
range from flatties to the latest import 4 cylinders to basic old fashion
V8s. One other thing, it MUST have an on board starter. It can be a
"plug-in" power supply from outside or carry a battery on board.
FUEL INJECTION & FUEL
Simple rules here, must be stacks and no more than 90%.
I have used 90% and it is very easy on parts and readily available.
Besides you don't have to use that much, it is just the maximum. It is
very easy to check in staging with those new hand held devices that just
sets the probe in the fuel and tells the percentage.
MUST be individual pipe exhaust, no collectors. That's
it, no other rules.
Whatever the current safety rules for this ET &
I am not to sure about this but I was thinking about
1400 lbs. WITH driver. This will allow some of use larger sized drivers to
play without a weight penalty.
That's it! Basic and simple and easy enough for anybody
to play and still have fun on a reasonable budget. I ran a computer
simulation using this set of rules and this is what I can up with .310 cu
in motor @ 800 hp @ 7000 rpm.
Shifted at 7500 rpm with following results: 1.06 60'
times and a 7.10 @188 mph. That would be a ride!
Yeah I know this is long but you see what happens when I
am locked up in the house? LOL Just some food for thought BUT I tell you
what, if I wasn't building my modified roadster I would definitely loved
to have one of these.
OK these are my thoughts, what are yours?